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EXPERIENCENG THE MAGIC OF SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK
When I travelled to the Serengeti National Park recently I returned feeling a bit overwhelmed because the animals, sights, sounds, vegetation, colours and hours fully packed with new adventures were larger than life. The park's name is derived from a Masaai word – Siringet - meaning endless plains.
After the long rains had blessed the wilderness of the Serengeti, I settled in with a group of four adventure-seekers via a small aircraft from Arusha.
One lovely morning, atop our open-roof land cruiser, we spent hours driving through the vast park with our guide, just listening and looking. The wildebeest, zebra, and gazelles grazed on the lush, green grass that had sprouted after the rains.
Just as we motored off from the Naabi Hill gate we encountered a sea of wildebeest and zebra that seemed to stretch from horizon to horizon, a sight that would become common as we toured the park. We were treated first hand to the Serengeti migration – a most awe-inspiring spectacle.
The call of the wild
Watching the magical world unfold in the Serengeti Park, time seemed to fly. When we heard lions roar, our guide assured us that they were very close by, something that was fascinating and frightening in equal measure.
Pretty soon, we encountered a pride of lions that had taken shelter from the sun under a young acacia tree. They were rolling around in the grass, looking lazy and harmless, as lions do most of the day.
We also encountered herds of elands roaming the arid landscape among the zebras, gazelles, topis and hartebeests, while vultures spread their huge wings underneath the sun – offering a most spectacular sight.
Despite the presence of predators, there was an infectious enthusiasm among the animals. We came across a grassy clearing where zebras, impalas and wildebeests all gathered to pass the time in the luscious lap of nature. Occasionally, a herd of giraffe gracefully glided across the road, in slow motion, their heads turned quizzically towards us.
The Serengeti offers not only adventure, but also peace and tranquillity. Flora and fauna has a magical way of banishing all anxiety. The buffalo stares at you with insulting candour and the leopard ignores you, wrapped in his magnificent, grand, sleekly fitting fur, and in the end, you cannot help but feel like you are one with the planet.
As the sky turned blood red, eagles on a dead tree proudly looked down on the world below. For the entire day, we too had been observers, taking in the magnificence that is the Serengeti, those 14,763 square kilometres of land that cover the world’s largest singular, eco-system.
Getting there:
The Serengeti National Park is nearly 335 kms from Arusha, stretching north to Kenya and bordering Lake Victoria to the west. There are scheduled flights that come in from Arusha, Lake Manyara and Mwanza. They are serviced by two airstrips, Seronera and Lobo. Visitors who come in by road are advised to make use of the four-wheel-drive technology.
Accommodation:
There are four lodges, more than 10 luxury tented camps and several campsites scattered throughout the park.
Important information:
If you travel Tanzania for the wildebeest migration, arrive in February or March to see the calving before the migration begins. Thousands of calves are all born within a six-week period before the animals start to migrate.
One of the little known Serengeti National Park facts for visitors who have never been here is that you can tour the Serengeti by hot air balloon. This can be a thrilling way to explore the park and enjoy wildlife sightseeing while relaxing.
Park fees start from $50 and will vary based on visitor status.
Mount Kilimanjaro National Park
Mount Kilimanjaro the highest point in Africa is also one of the highest mountains in the world accessible to walkers. It lies in Tanzania just south of the Kenyan border and the area above 2750m. is a National Park. The park headquarters are located by the Marangu Park Gate, 5km. above Marangu. Park fees are payable through an officially approved agent (hotel or tour operator - beware of impostors), most of whom offer a full package. Park fees for the year 2008 are $60 per person per day entry fee plus $50 per person per night camping or hut fee. This fee, payable in foreign exchange only, covers entrance, mountain hut and camping fees only (no porter, guide or service fees) .The tourist route, an easy walk as far as the Kibo Hut. The lower sections provide fine forest and moorland walking. The lunar landscape of the Saddle leads to the Kibo Hut; above this tedious scree leads to the crater rim. All huts on the route are manned and in radio contact with the Park Headquarters at Marangu. Just above the Park Gate the western route through the forest provides a longer, more difficult but beautiful walk along narrow paths beside streams. There is often no water at Kibo Hut and it either has to be carried from last water or melted from snow or ice if this is available. During peak periods the huts are sometimes overfull because of groups altering itineraries or for other reasons. At these times all facilities will be severely overstrained.
Note: The path in the forest is often realigned on account of erosion. Above Mandara hut the main path has been realigned and now passes closer to Maundi Crater - a worthwhile viewpoint.
MARANGU ROUTE (above KIBO HUT)
Easy walking up steep, tedious scree slopes to Gillman's Point then along the broad crater rim with good views over the caldera and of Mawenzi. A very early departure to arrive at sunrise at Gillman’s Point is recommended. The final section undulates and is occasionally snowy. No special equipment is required. Grade l.
MWEKA ROUTE
A very direct and fast way down the mountain providing limited views across the Southern Glaciers. The track in the forest is often impassable even to 4WD vehicles. Beyond the roadhead the path is steep and slippery in parts. Above the Mweka Huts water must be carried. Sometimes a long walk is required at the Barafu Hut to find snow or ice for water.
UMBWE ROUTE trip
A very strenuous walk up steep, slippery paths with many fallen trees to negotiate. The middle section follows a narrow spectacular ridge with magnificent views of the Great Barranco and Southern Icefields.
MACHAME ROUTE trip
Machame village is served by a tarmac road. There is a park checkpoint at the start of the route. The walking is strenuous, initially up narrow, slippery paths through beautiful forest. It provides good access to the South Western Glaciers and the Western Breach.
SHIRA ROUTE
Depending on its condition and the weather, this track provides an access route for 4WD vehicles to within 1 hour of the Shira Hut. The Shira Plateau is very beautiful with good views of the Western Glaciers. There are several fine minor summits to be climbed; the Shira Needle can be gained by a scramble and provides a nice viewpoint.
LEMOSHO GLADES ROUTE
This magnificent variation to the Shira Route is as yet unspoilt and little used. It takes paths through forests rich in game south of the Shira Route. On day 3 the Machame Route is rejoined. Detailed description.
RONGAI (OLOITOKITOK) ROUTE
This used to be the route used by the Outward Bound Mountain School at Oloitokitok in Kenya. The border is open during daylight hours but all park fees and arrangements must be made (via an agent) at the Marangu Gate before starting on the route. It is possible to arrange transport from Marangu to Naremoru / Rongai. Only a limited number of groups are allowed on the route at any time and it may not be used in descent. There are several big caves along the route, these are used by porters and tents should be carried. The "Outward Bound School" Hut is privately owned, no water or firewood in the vicinity. Allow 5 days for the traverse.
A superb traverse offering fine panoramas of the southern icefields and visiting some of the mountains most beautiful locations. The journey from Shira Hut to Horombo Hut or vice versa takes at least two days and is best broken at the Barranco Hut or at Karanga Valley. The section just east of the Great Barranco involves a short easy scramble.
NORTH CIRCUIT
A very remote and rather tedious walk over endless screes. Fine panoramas northwards to Mount Kenya. Allow 3 hours from the Shira Hut to the Moir Hut. The next section to the Kibo, Mawenzi or Horombo Huts is best done in two days. Very limited water en-route.
REUSCH CRATER AND ASH PIT
Easily reached from the East. Sulphur deposits and fumaroles are found inside this crater. To look into the Ash Pit it is best to go down into the crater. Descending into the Ash Pit involves scrambling over steep scree and poor rock.
NORTHERN AND EASTERN ICEFIELDS
Though far from the main routes there is some magnificent ice scenery is to be seen here - well worth the effort and time.
'Guide to Mount Kenya and Mount Kilimanjaro': comprehensive guidebook, available through the Mountain Club of Kenya.
'East Africa International Mountain Guide': available through West Col Productions, Goring, Reading, RG8 9AA, England. details
'Mount Kilimanjaro National Park': published by the Tanzanian National Parks and available only in Tanzania.
ARUSHA REGION
Arusha
- TanzaniaArusha
Arusha stands in the foothills of Mount Meru at an altitude of about 1,500m. It's a bustling town where every other vehicle is heading on safari. There are two airports nearby: Kilimanjaro International Airport, 40km northeast of town, and Arusha Airport, on the town's western fringes. Although the town is not usually a destination in itself, some travellers need to overnight here to make transport connections work. Here are our suggestions for an overnight stay in Arusha:
Arusha Coffee Lodge
In the middle of a working coffee estate, Arusha Coffee Lodge is a 10-minute drive from Arusha Airport. The lodge has 18 spacious, split-level chalets with timber interiors. Each has french doors onto a raised deck, whilst inside is a wood-burning fire – great on cold evenings. The lodge's restaurant is popular with locals and expats, eating under parasols in the shady garden, or by the dining room's fire. (Read more about Arusha Coffee Lodge…)
Rivertrees Country Inn
Thirty minutes northeast of Arusha, close to Kilimanjaro Airport, the owner-run Rivertrees Country Inn is a rural haven, where lush gardens lend an air of calm and harmony. The pool is inviting, and the more energetic might go horse-riding. There are 10 en-suite rooms, furnished in 'country' style: gingham fabrics, rocking chairs, vases of fresh roses and solid timber four-poster beds. Beside the water's edge, two River Cottages are larger, each with a comfortable lounge area, a log fire, a private deck and indoor/outdoor showers. Rivertrees also has a new, two-bedroom, exclusive-use villa with its own private gardens. (Read more about Rivertrees Country Inn…)
Mount Meru Game Lodge & Sanctuary
Mount Meru Game Lodge & Sanctuary has accepted visitors since 1959 as a means to fund its animal rescue and rehabilitation scheme. There are 17 en-suite bedrooms in simple painted buildings and a few varnished log cabins. All are individual in style, featuring wroughtiron beds, white linen, natural mats and tasteful touches. Each room has its own small veranda, but meals and fireside nightcaps take place in the main house. (Read more about Mount Meru Game Lodge & Sanctuary…)
Onsea House
Onsea House is a lovely, low-key option for an overnight stop in Arusha. Your hosts are the Janssens-Onsea family, who welcome you into their home as guests. The lodge is divided into two buildings opposite one another – the main house sits above the road and houses two bedrooms, the restaurant, bar and lounge. Below the road, a further house contains two rooms and in the garden, the outdoor pool. Onsea House has a simple style, a friendly atmosphere and some of the best food in Arusha. (Read more about Onsea House…)
Arusha National Park
Just outside Arusha, the beautiful Arusha National Park is often overlooked by travellers rushing to the more famous sights of the Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti. However, with a little time, Arusha National Park offers some lovely walking in the foothills of Mount Meru and canoeing on the Momela Lakes, plus gentle game drives. If you have the time it is well worth a day or two.
The park is only137km², but includes a diverse range of habitats from mountane rainforest, to open savannah, alkaline lakes and even a volcanic crater. On clear days you get great views of Mount Meru, which is Africa's fifth highest mountain and within the parks boundary. You can also see across to Kilimanjaro - which is 50km away.
Within the park there are three broad areas to be found: Ngurdoto Crater (surrounded by forrest), the Momela Lakes (alkaline) and Mount Meru (lush forrest and bare rock). These are all at varying altitudes and as a result have very different vegetation – it is all this that helps to make this such a diverse park to visit.
Despite it's small size, Arusha National Park has a rich variety of wildlife. Within the park's three vegetation zones, many different kinds of animals can be found. Near the water, reedbuck and waterbuck can be spotted, while shy bushbuck and duiker keep to the forested parts of the park. Especially the Mount Meru system offers a vast diversity of larger mammal, such as leopard and hyena. Besides, almost 400 species of birds have been recorded in the park. Some of them are migratory and only present between October and April, others are permanent residents.
There are a range of activities to do in Arusha National Park. This includes walking safaris which are always accompanied by a ranger and last for a maximum of four hours, during which you would stop for a break at one of the park's lovely picnic sites. You can also explore the far reaches of the park by vehicle, taking in some of the lovely views and keeping an eye out for wildlife. Another great activity here and one not found in other safari parks in Tanzania, is a canoeing safaris which allows you to explore the Momela Lakes.
Hatari Lodge
Hatari Lodge is a quirky lodge located on the northern edge of Arusha National Park. It is named after the famous 1960s' blockbuster film, Hatari!, starring John Wayne, which was filmed in the surrounding area. It is run by its owners, Joerg & Marlies Gabriel, and makes a great base for exploring the park. Hatari has are nine bedrooms and the quality of the food and service is of a very high standard; we are very impressed with it
ZANZIBAR ISLAND
The island's history goes back many centuries. Its heyday came in the early 19th century when the Sultan of Muscat moved his court to Zanzibar. Spice cultivation was developed (particularly the clove tree), and the slave trade was at its height - Zanzibar became the most important town in East Africa.
SAFARI BALOON
The 1-hrs baloon safari coasting US$ 400 per preson is worth taking.The early morning safari enables one to sailacross the plans,watching the wild denizens as they rise from slumber at the break of daySAFAR TIPS
1]Dress in natural colour like browns, beiges khaki short or trousers and short-sleeved shirt/ blouses or t-shirt in cotton, are generally preferable.Light wollens may be required in the evenning or early mornings,especially in the nourthern circuit
2]Confotable walking shoes are ideal inthe bush,specially for walking safaris
3]Sunglasees hat,suntan lotion,freshen-up towels and mosquito repellant cream are must
4]Carry a camera,prenty of film,replacement batteries and binoculars
5]Baggage should be kept to minimum,Soft bags are best
KARIBU TANZANIA
2]Confotable walking shoes are ideal inthe bush,specially for walking safaris
3]Sunglasees hat,suntan lotion,freshen-up towels and mosquito repellant cream are must
4]Carry a camera,prenty of film,replacement batteries and binoculars
5]Baggage should be kept to minimum,Soft bags are best
KARIBU TANZANIA
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